Hublot’s new 38mm Classic Fusion Tributo brings back the 12-screw bezel of the 1980 MDM watch, and founder Carlo Crocco helped develop it.
Third time lucky? Hublot has now tried three times to honour its first watch, and the new Classic Fusion Tributo comes closest yet. The 38mm watch looks back to the 1980 MDM ‘La Hublot’, and founder Carlo Crocco had a hand in shaping it.
Two versions join the permanent catalogue, one in 18ct yellow gold and one in 18ct white gold. Both cost A$44,600 and are on sale now through select retailers and Hublot’s website.
Where the Rubber Strap Revolution Started
A gold watch on a rubber strap seems ordinary today. In 1980, it was scandalous. Crocco, an Italian watchmaker and entrepreneur, paired the two to create his ideal Mediterranean summer watch. Royal families in Monaco, Spain and Sweden soon took it up.
That makes Hublot 46 years old, which may surprise anyone who still thinks of it as a young brand. Crocco left the company in 2008, so his return for this project is notable.
Back to 12 Screws
The biggest change from the standard Classic Fusion is the bezel. The Tributo restores the original’s 12 porthole-inspired screws, which also act as hour markers on an otherwise bare dial. Even the screw heads are slightly raised and convex, as they were in 1980, rather than flush.
Earlier tributes missed this detail. The 2020 Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary measured 45mm and used just six screws. The 2023 Classic Fusion Original came closer at 38mm, but it also kept six screws. Both also came in titanium and black ceramic, materials the original never used.
Modern Proportions and Details
This is not a straight recreation, however. Hublot says it aimed to realise Crocco’s original vision with the benefit of 46 years of progress. The case is 2mm wider than the original and 9.5mm thick, compared with 6.5mm. Part of that extra depth comes from the movement, since the 1980 watch ran on quartz.
Other updates include thicker lugs and hands, a larger screw-down crown, a white-on-black date wheel and an exhibition caseback. The dial is polished black onyx rather than lacquer. It also carries the original ‘MDM’ signature at six o’clock, which earlier revivals left out.
The integrated rubber strap now has vertical corrugations, while the original was smooth. It fastens with a gold buckle and a black-plated titanium folding clasp. On the white gold model, the bezel screws are also black-plated titanium, a detail the 1980 watch never had. Water resistance is 100m.
Zenith Power Underneath
The automatic calibre HUB1711 is based on Zenith’s Elite 670 and runs at 4Hz. Hublot credits an optimised gear train for a 60-hour power reserve, 10 hours more than the related HUB1710. However, the published specification sheet lists 50 hours, so buyers should check that figure.
An H-shaped open rotor sits behind the sapphire caseback. It is gold on the yellow gold model and black tungsten on the white gold version.
A Tribute With a Cause
Hublot will also donate CHF 100,000 from Tributo sales to the Main Dans la Main Foundation. Crocco founded the charity in 1998 to support vulnerable children and communities in need.
Hublot’s first two tributes produced a 45mm anniversary piece and a six-screw follow-up. Now all 12 screws are back on the bezel. Hublot’s identity grew out of that single 1980 watch, so getting this detail right matters.
