Omega has given its Speedmaster 38 collection a significant redesign, and for fans of the much-loved Speedmaster Reduced, there has been a feeling of it finally getting the love it deserved. The new 38mm Speedmaster range brings the smaller Speedmaster much closer to the look of the iconic Moonwatch, while retaining the automatic movement and more compact proportions that made the original Speedmaster Reduced appealing in the first place.
I was surprised to learn during my research that the Speedmaster Reduced disappeared from Omega’s catalogue around 2010, leaving enthusiasts looking for a smaller, more accessible alternative to the 42mm Speedmaster Professional since then. Omega introduced the Speedmaster 38 in 2017, but its styling moved further away from the traditional Moonwatch design, particularly with its oval sub-dials and more jewellery focused variants.
This new release changes that, with the headline model being a stainless steel Speedmaster 38 with a matte black dial and, importantly, no date window. Its layout is immediately familiar to anyone who knows the Moonwatch, with three traditional round subdials and a much cleaner overall appearance.
The design also gets the classic Speedmaster details that enthusiasts will recognise, including the thicker tachymeter bezel and the famous “Dot Over Ninety” detail. The sub-dials are now round rather than oval, while the dial itself carries less text, giving the watch a considerably more purposeful appearance.
At 38mm, it is smaller than the 42mm Speedmaster Professional but has almost the same lug-to-lug length as the old Speedmaster Reduced. The new watch measures 38mm across, with a 44.96mm lug-to-lug measurement and a 14.75mm thickness. It also gets 100 metres of water resistance.
Underneath, the black-dial model uses Omega’s automatic Co-Axial Calibre 3332, offering a 52-hour power reserve. Unlike the traditional hand wound Moonwatch, there is no need to manually wind the watch every couple of days, making this arguably the more convenient option for someone looking for a daily wear Speedmaster.
The rest of the new collection expands beyond the black dial model. Omega has introduced seven new references, including versions with ivory, white, blue and icy blue dials, along with combinations of stainless steel and Sedna gold and a diamond set bezel option – clearly trying to cover all slices of the market.
Six of the new watches use the automatic Calibre 3330 and feature a date display, while the black dial Calibre 3332 model drops the date to retain the classic three register Speedmaster layout. All of them are fitted to a five link bracelet with Omega’s comfort adjustment system, giving the smaller Speedmaster a more modern bracelet and easier fine adjustment on the wrist.
The result is a new Speedmaster that sits in a key position within Omega’s current lineup. It is not intended to replace the 42mm Speedmaster Professional, nor is it a direct reissue of the vintage Speedmaster Reduced. Instead, it takes the idea behind the Reduced and brings it into the modern Speedmaster family, addressing the complaints of those that had issues with the older Reduceds, even if that comes at the expense of maybe getting too close to the “actual” Moonwatch.
For anyone who always liked the proportions of the Reduced but wanted something new, rather than buying a 20 year old example on the second hand market, this could be exactly what they have been waiting for. But be prepared, because following Omega’s recent price hikes, the Speedmaster 38 collection is available now with prices starting at US$6,500.
And while the Moonwatch will undoubtedly remain the Speedmaster most people dream of owning, this smaller version may be the one that makes the most sense for everyday wear, particularly for collectors who have found the 42mm Professional a little too much watch for their wrist.
